For the last five days I’ve been leading a photography workshop in Yunnan, China, a favourite area of mine. We’re based in a converted Naxi courtyard farmhouse in the old village of Shuhe, about half an hour from Lijiang. Called The Bivou, it’s the idea of an architect friend of mine with a practice in Shanghai, offering activities like climbing, trekking — and of course photography — with close connections to the surrounding small communities.
Something very special just happened, because of these close connections. Four days ago, an 80-year old woman died in one of the Yi minority villages in the mountains. Teacher Liu from a neighbouring Yi village told the Bivou, and that we were invited to attend the funeral. What an opportunity; there would be one of the biggest gatherings for a long time, with groups from the surrounding valleys and hills arriving, dressed in their traditional clothes. We dropped out other plans immediately, and yesterday morning drove up to the mountains northwest of here. I have ten participants in this workshop, from Singapore, Jakarta, Kuala Lumpur, Moscow and London.
The village, rather sweetly named Xue Hua, meaning Snowflake, lies at the foot of Yulong Snow Mountain at over 3,000 metres, an hour and a half’s drive from Shuhe. We were careful to follow protocol, guided through this by Teacher Liu, taking appropriate gifts like the Yi guests – cigarettes, baijiu (white liquor, 50º plus), and a monetary gift. Cameras not used at all until we had met the family, sat with them and talked, drinking tea around the fire. The Yi are quite robust about this rite of passage, and the wake is an occasion for gathering and reinforcing community relationships as well as sending the departed with appropriate rituals.
The courtyard house of the deceased’s family in Snowflake village. As each group of guests arrives from their own village, they are led in by the Lala, who carries white cloth on a pole. Yulong Snow Mountain behind.
Yi women who arrived earlier in the day wait for the new arrivals.
The new arrivals, the women keening, are led to where the deceased lies.
The deceased, on a platform in an enclosure within the courtyard, is brushed with a pine leaf branch.
The sister-in-law of the deceased, inside the house.
The sister-in-law comments on the dress of a 20-year-old young woman, whose headdress bound with plaited black hair shows that she is unmarried. Marriages among the Yi are traditionally arranged.
The black square headdresses of married Yi women are distinctive, but nowadays worn only at such occasions.
Being here is a privilege, and a rare one. Outsiders are not normally allowed, and we make sure that we talk, engage with, and share images with everyone here. A member of our workshop group showing images to a couple of the Yi women.
My publisher Ilex has just launched a new website, ilexinstant.com, from which they’re selling my books for immediate download anywhere in the world. The Photographer’s Eye and Perfect Exposure, as well as the whole Photo School series are already available, and more titles will be added soon. If you’ve got an iPad, or any other tablet, this is a great way to get the books – and you can read them on your computer too, as Ilex don’t use any restrictive controls.
